Development of a range of retinoid-based products and preliminary design of its manufacturing process

Abstract

In recent years, there has been a change in dermocosmetics towards a more integrated understanding of skin health, emphasizing the balance and internal well-being of the skin microbiome and the prevention of dermatological issues. Since their introduction in dermatology, retinoids have demonstrated their effectiveness in treating acne and the marks it leaves behind, such as post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Moreover, the biologically active forms of retinoids can influence the expression of genes related to cell differentiation and proliferation, thus improving the signs of skin aging This project focuses on the development of two products formulated with different retinoids:a retinal-based serum for the topical treatment of acne and post-acne marks, and a retinol-based cream to prevent and treat signs of skin aging. The development stages include product conceptualization, identification of quality factors, formulation in accordance with European regulations, and preliminary design of the manufacturing process, including detailed equipment selection, annual campaign scheduling, and design of the flow process and Gantt diagram. The formulation of both products consists of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, considering the serum a microemulsion, and the cream a macroemulsion. Both feature a combination of active ingredients that act synergistically: the serum includes retinaldehyde, zinc PCA, niacinamide, and a derivative of vitamin B6, while the cream contains a mixture of retinol, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. Production is set at 6,000 kg/year for the serum and 10,000 kg/year for the cream, following a batch process on a multiproduct plant with an overlapping production configuration enabling simultaneous processing of different operations and improving time efficiency